ta som: exploring a hidden gem in angkor
Introduction to ta som
Ta Som is a smaller, often overlooked temple within the Angkor archaeological park in Cambodia. Located northeast of Neak Pean and east of East Mebon, it's part of the 'Grand Circuit' and offers a unique glimpse into the Khmer architectural style of the late 12th century. While less grand than Angkor Wat or Bayon, Ta Som’s charm lies in its intimate scale and the remarkable fig tree embracing one of its towers, creating a picturesque and memorable scene. It’s a fantastic spot for those seeking a quieter, more contemplative experience within the Angkor complex.
Historical context and construction
Built during the reign of Jayavarman VII (1181-c. 1218), Ta Som reflects the shift in Khmer religious practices from Hinduism to Mahayana Buddhism. Initially dedicated to a Buddhist deity, the temple’s original Sanskrit name was Gaurashrigajaratna, meaning “Glückverheißender-Heiliger-Elefanten-Edelstein” (Jewel Elephant Holy). A stele discovered in Preah Khan confirmed this name. The temple's design, similar to Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, highlights Jayavarman VII’s prolific building program.
Architectural features and layout
Ta Som is a medium-sized monastic complex, featuring a standard layout characteristic of this era. The outer enclosure measures 240m x 200m, possibly added during the reign of Indravarman II. The eastern gopura (gateway tower) is particularly famous for the massive fig tree that entwines it. Inside, the temple has laterite galleries surrounding a central courtyard, with a cross-shaped Prasat sanctuary and two libraries constructed from sandstone. The inner enclosure is smaller than its counterparts, measuring 30m x 20m.
The iconic fig tree
The most photographed feature of Ta Som is undoubtedly the fig tree growing out of the eastern gopura. This dramatic scene exemplifies the power of nature reclaiming ancient structures. However, it’s important to note that the fig tree began to die in the 1970s and is no longer actively growing, meaning its eventual collapse is inevitable. Therefore, visiting soon is recommended to witness this stunning spectacle before it changes forever. The best times to photograph it are between 10:00 and 11:00 am or 1:00 and 2:00 pm.
Reliefs and sculptures
Despite its smaller size, Ta Som boasts well-preserved reliefs and sculptures. Many are of higher quality craftsmanship than those found in contemporary temples. The Apsaras (celestial dancers) depicted on the walls display a remarkable individuality, setting them apart from other Bayon-style sculptures. A fallen gable, now situated south of the central sanctuary, features a beautiful relief of the Bodhisattva Lokeshvara. Restoration efforts by the World Monuments Fund (WMF) and the APSARA Authority have helped preserve these artistic treasures.
Practical information and visiting tips
Ta Som is located on the Grand Circuit, approximately 2 km east of Neak Pean. Your Angkor ticket must be checked at the West Gate entrance. The site is relatively quiet compared to the more popular temples, offering a more peaceful experience. Allow approximately 30-45 minutes for your visit. Remember to be respectful of the site and its historical significance. Consider hiring a guide to learn more about the temple's history and architecture.