Gilpin spice reborn: new chef signals a bold shift in lake district dining
The Gilpin Hotel & Lake House, a stalwart of the Lake District, is undergoing a significant culinary transformation, thanks to the arrival of Chef Ralph Rojas.
A culinary maestro arrives
Previously at Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat, Rojas is injecting a dynamic, spice-route-inspired menu into Gilpin Spice, the hotel’s acclaimed 2 AA Rosette restaurant. This isn’t a simple update; it’s a deliberate reimagining, promising a more layered and intensely flavorful experience.
Our recent visit confirmed the buzz – the ambiance remains sophisticated, anchored by the hotel’s inherent charm, but the food is demonstrably bolder. We started with welcome snacks on the newly unveiled Laurent-Perrier Terrace, a welcome prelude to the evening’s tasting.
Immediately striking was the chef’s table counter, offering unparalleled views into the heart of the kitchen. The controlled chaos – the hiss of woks, the flare of flames, the meticulous roll of sushi – created an undeniable energy. It’s a visceral experience, a reminder of the skill involved in crafting each plate.
A menu of contrasts and flavors
The menu itself is a carefully curated collection of small plates and sushi, drawing heavily on influences from across Asia. From the initial Prawn Crackers with coriander emulsion (£7) to the rich otoro (bluefin tuna belly) sushi (£17), each dish felt considered, a deliberate exploration of texture and taste. The Wagyu Tataki, prepared tableside with truffle ponzu and emulsion, was an immediate standout – a decadent, umami-rich indulgence.
But it wasn’t just about richness. The Grilled Octopus, charred to a perfect bite and glazed with a vibrant Korean BBQ sauce, alongside a surprising tofu foam and chimichurri, revealed a sophisticated understanding of balance. The ‘Kinilaw of the Day,’ a Filipino-style ceviche featuring fresh tuna, coconut milk, and calamansi, was a revelation – a bright, acidic counterpoint to the richness of the meal.
Even the more substantial dishes – the Beer Brined Cumbrian Pork Steak (£21) and the 30 Day Aged British Rib Eye (£42) – were elevated by thoughtful pairings and innovative techniques. The Egg Fried Rice, a Gilpin Spice staple, remained a comforting classic.
Chef Rojas’s commitment to nuanced spice is evident, avoiding the predictable “blow-your-head-off” approach. The SFC (Spice Fried Chicken), despite its fiery Korean hot sauce, was surprisingly balanced, a testament to his precision.
As we concluded, the Coconut and Lime Sorbet provided a refreshing finale, a necessary cleanse before departing. This is more than just a restaurant revamp; it’s a statement. Gilpin Spice, under Rojas’s direction, is poised to solidify its position as a must-visit destination in the Lake District.