bayon temple: a guide to angkor's smiling faces
Introduction to the bayon temple
The Bayon, located in the heart of Angkor Thom, is a breathtaking temple complex and one of the most iconic landmarks in Cambodia. Built around 1200, it stands as the second most visited monument in Angkor, after Angkor Wat. The temple is renowned for its numerous enigmatic stone faces, a defining feature of Angkor. Its unique architecture and symbolic representation of Buddhist cosmology make it a must-see destination for visitors exploring the ancient Khmer empire.
Historical context: jayavarman vii and angkor thom
The Bayon was commissioned by King Jayavarman VII (1181-c. 1218), who reigned during a period of significant change and rebuilding after a Cham invasion. He introduced Mahayana Buddhism as the new state religion. The temple's construction was undertaken with remarkable speed, resulting in a less precise architectural style compared to the renowned Angkor Wat. It served as the state temple of Jayavarman VII, representing the culmination of his ambitious construction program and the new capital, Angkor Thom, connected by four avenues from the city gates.
The iconic stone faces
Perhaps the most striking aspect of the Bayon is its multitude of carved stone faces. Initially, scholars estimate there were around 50 towers with approximately 200 colossal faces. Today, 37 towers remain, each typically adorned with four faces – one facing each cardinal direction. The identity of these faces remains a subject of debate; most believe they represent Avalokiteshvara, a Bodhisattva embodying compassion, or a combination of Buddha and Jayavarman VII himself, reflecting the king's divine status.
Reliefs and artistic significance
Beyond the faces, the Bayon boasts impressive bas-reliefs that adorn the gallery walls. These reliefs depict a wide range of scenes, including historical events, military processions, and vivid snapshots of daily life. The most famous scene portrays the Cham invasion of 1177/78, where Cham warriors are seen attacking by river. These reliefs offer a unique glimpse into Khmer society, culture, and military prowess during the 12th and 13th centuries.
Architectural features and layout
The Bayon's layout is intentionally complex and labyrinthine. The temple has three enclosure levels: an outer gallery (third enclosure), an inner gallery (second enclosure), and an upper terrace (first enclosure). The outer gallery, measuring 156m x 141m, originally featured a colonnade and overhanging vault. The upper terrace houses the iconic faces. The temple originally had 16 chapels, but later was converted to a Hindu shrine during the reign of Jayavarman VIII which explains the presence of Hindu deities in some of the reliefs.
Visiting the bayon: tips and considerations
The best time to view the faces is around midday when the sunlight accentuates their features. To appreciate the bas-reliefs, visit between 11 am and 1 pm when shadows highlight the carvings. The temple is busiest between 9:00 am and 10:30 am, and 3:00 pm and 4:30 pm. Allow ample time to explore the temple's intricate details and absorb the profound sense of history and spiritual significance that permeates this remarkable monument.