exploring bakong: a gateway to angkor's early temples

Introduction to bakong

Bakong is an early Khmer temple located in Roluos, approximately 13 km east-southeast of Siem Reap. It serves as a significant example of the transition in Khmer architecture, representing a shift toward the iconic temple-pyramid design that would characterize later Angkorian structures. A half-day trip provides ample time to explore Bakong alongside the nearby temples of Preah Ko and Lolei, all requiring an Angkor Pass for entry. Visiting Bakong offers a fascinating glimpse into the foundations of the Angkorian empire.

Historical significance & construction

Commissioned by Indravarman I and dedicated in 881, Bakong holds considerable historical importance. It's considered a prototype of the typical Khmer temple-pyramid, also known as a stepped pyramid. It functioned as the state temple of its time, dedicated to the Shiva-Lingam of the king. While Jayavarman II is credited with founding the Angkorian empire in the early 9th century, Indravarman I’s achievements are well-documented through inscriptions and architectural marvels like Bakong and Preah Ko.

Architectural features and layout

Originally surrounded by a large outer moat (900m x 700m), much of which is now indistinct, a well-preserved inner moat (450m x 400m) near the visitor parking area remains impressive. The temple's access is via a dam on the east, with a second ramp crossing the moat in the west, decorated with Naga balustrades. The inner temple enclosure (160m x 120m) contains four corner Gopuram gates, two chapels along the central axis, and six square buildings with stone-lattice windows.

The central temple and its symbolism

The central temple mountain is constructed of sandstone blocks, measuring 67m x 65m and 14m high. Unusual rectangular pavilion gates with gabled roofs lead to axial stairways. Lion statues guard the stairways, and the levels become progressively narrower, creating an optical illusion of greater height. The five levels symbolize the five levels of Mount Meru, the mythical home of the gods, each inhabited by different beings – Nagas, Garudas, Rakshasas, Yaksas, and deities.

Later additions and the shiva-lingam

A later addition in the 12th-century Angkor Wat style replaced the original Prasat on the temple mountain. Within the Prasat tower, the Shiva-Lingam named Indreshvara was housed, combining the names of Indravarman and the god Ishvara (“Lord of the World”). The presence of later additions demonstrates that Bakong wasn’t abandoned after the capital moved to Angkor; a monastery with new structures still exists on the temple island today. The temple's design influenced key elements of later, grander temples, such as Angkor Wat.

Planning your visit & combination tours

The best times to visit Bakong are early morning or late afternoon. An Angkor Pass is required for entry. Consider incorporating Bakong into a multi-day Angkor exploration, starting with Roluos and culminating with a visit to Angkor Wat. Combining a visit to Roluos with a Tonle Sap Lake boat trip to villages like Kampong Phluk or Kampong Khleang makes for a memorable full-day experience. Alternatively, extend your exploration eastward to sites like Chau Srei Vibol, Phnom Bok, and Banteay Samray.